The ART of using a snoot
Underwater photography often demands specialized tools to capture crisp and detailed images, and one of the most effective tools for achieving striking results is the snoot. In this post we’ll explore what a snoot is, why it’s used, the different types available, and how to effectively utilize it to enhance your macro underwater photography. Whether you’re considering buying a snoot or looking to improve your skills with one, this guide will provide you with valuable insights and techniques.
What is a Snoot?
A snoot is a device that attaches to the front of your strobe and narrows the beam of light emitted when you fire your strobe. By carefully positioning the snoot, you can ensure that only your subject is illuminated by a small pool of light, leaving everything else in the frame completely black.
This selective lighting technique is particularly useful in macro underwater photography as it allows you to isolate and emphasize your subject, bringing out details, textures, and colours that might otherwise be lost against a distracting background.
Types of Snoots
There are several types of snoots available, each with unique characteristics:
- Cone-shaped Snoots: These are very basic, have a narrow opening at the end, and are straightforward to use.
- Fiber Optic Snoots: These use fibre optic threads to channel the light from the strobe into a narrow beam.
- Optical Snoots: These snoots have lenses built into them that condense and narrow the beam of light without compromising light quality.
Most snoots come with a set of masks that slide into a special slot. These masks have holes of varying sizes; the smaller the hole, the narrower the beam, and thus the smaller the pool of light that lands on your subject.
Some modern snoots, like the Marelux SOFT Pro and SOFT Lite, and the SUPE OSD, have built-in apertures that allow you to control the size of the light beam by simply turning a dial. This is extremely beneficial as the changing of masks can often move the snoot, requiring it to be repositioned. The apertures reduce the likelihood of this happening.
How to Use a Snoot
Preparing Your Equipment
When using a snoot for macro underwater photography, buoyancy is crucial. Some snoots can be quite heavy, and adding float arms, or floats to your strobe arms can make a significant difference. A properly balanced setup prevents the snoot from pulling your camera housing downward, which can strain your wrists and make precise positioning difficult.
Positioning the Snoot
Attach the snoot to the left handle of your housing with a medium-sized (8mm length) float arm for adequate reach. If you’re using a compact camera or a camera with a 60mm macro lense, this setup is generally sufficient. However, if you’re using longer lenses like a 90mm, 100mm, or 105mm macro lense, you may need two strobe arms for proper positioning.
On the right-hand strobe arm, you can attach another strobe to balance your camera setup, and to have it ready if you want to photograph your subject without the snoot.
In-Water Setup
Once in the water, turn on your strobe and position the snoot in front of your camera’s port, pointing directly downwards. You will position it relative to the closest working distance of your lense. I like to look over the top of my camera to make sure that the snoot is approximately 10-15cm from the front of my port, positioned in line with the centre of my port.
Find a small, stationary subject to practice on, such as a stone. Look through your viewfinder until the stone is in the centre of the frame. Using back button focus, focus your camera on the stone.
Next, move your strobe until you see the aiming light from the snoot. Adjust the position of your strobe until the aiming light falls on your stone. Once your snoot and focus point of your camera line up, use back button focus to ensure that the aiming light and your subject are aligned.
Tighten your clamps so that your strobe and snoot are firmly in place, double check your aiming light’s position and go and take photos!
Technical Considerations
The distance between the tip of the snoot and your subject is critical. Typically, the snoot should be around 10cm from the subject. The closer the snoot is, the more concentrated and intense the light will be, creating a distinct circular pool of light around your subject. Conversely, moving the snoot further away results in more diffused-edge light. Experimenting with different distances will help you achieve the desired effect.
Adjusting the snoot’s position and angle is also important. Changing the angle at which the light hits the subject can create different shadows and highlights, adding depth and dimension to your images.
As you get more adept at using your snoot, try to position it slightly beyond your subject, pointing backwards so that the beam of light lights your subject from behind. This is particularly useful when photographing transparent or translucent subjects.
Camera Settings
To ensure a black background, set your camera to the fastest shutter speed that syncs with your strobe, a small aperture for good depth of field and to help cut out more ambient light, and a low ISO to cut out ambient light. Use the power of your strobe and the distance of your snoot to your subject for optimal lighting. If your image is too bright, reduce the strobe power; if it’s too dark, increase the strobe power or move the snoot closer to your subject.
Ethical Considerations
When photographing marine life, it’s important to be mindful of their natural behaviour, and not disturb or stress them. Observe their movements and position yourself accordingly to capture authentic and captivating moments. Be careful not to knock your subjects with the tip of your snoot!
Join Me to Perfect Your Snooting Skills
If you want to master snooting and other underwater photography techniques, why not join one of my workshops? You’ll learn how to set up and use a snoot independently, even when you’re back home without a guide. Check out my up and coming workshops HERE.
Snooting can elevate your underwater photography by isolating your subject and adding dramatic, artistic lighting effects. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll wonder how you ever shot without it. Happy diving and happy snooting!